Now minty (or should that be cinnamon?) fresh and ready for Christmas 2016! I keep the information on this page as accurate as possible, but please do double-check things if there's something you especially want to see - I've included links to official websites where possible.
I'll offering a special Christmas-flavoured history tour on December 3rd and 4th 2016 - check it out if you want to learn more about Berlin during your visit!
What to expect
The major Christmas markets in Berlin open in the last week of November and are open right up until Christmas itself, with some open into the beginning of January, as Berlin is also a popular destination for New Year's Eve celebrations.
The Christmas markets have stalls selling all sorts of gifts and decorations. The wooden ornaments from the Erzgebirge in the east of Germany are always a mainstay, with items like Nußknacker (nutcrackers - decorative figures which historically were for cracking nuts, though are often purely for decoration now) and Räuchermänner (smoking men - wooden men which you put an incense cone inside, making smoke come out the mouth). Different kinds of candle holders are also common, from coloured glass lanterns to the wooden 'Weihnachtspyramide' (literally 'Christmas pyramid' - a carousel-like decoration with fan-like blades on the top, which harness the heat of the candles to make the carousel rotate). Winter clothing like scarves and hats are popular as well, as are (particularly wooden) toys and games.
If you're out browsing the markets in the cold, it probably won't be long before you want something to help keep you warm, which is something that's always well catered for! At a Christmas market, you're never far away from a stall selling Glühwein (mulled wine), or its rum-laced cousin Feuerzangenbowle, and they'll usually have a non-alcoholic alternative as well. There are always plenty of hot snacks too, with sausages and hearty soups, alongside sweet treats like Schmalzkuchen (which could be literally translated as 'lard cake' which sounds disgusting, but is actually small squares of deep fried dough) and the round balls of deep fried dough known as Quarkkeulchen which, when they've been freshly fried and are still warm, are great on a cold night. You'll no doubt smell the sweet aroma of hot candied almonds (Gebrannte Mandeln) from a mile off as well, which can be hard to resist!
For more substantial food, a number of the markets also have dedicated restaurant huts, which might be of interest if you'd rather get out of the cold completely.
The Christmas Markets (see Christmas markets map)
Here's a selection of the most central markets which are open for the whole season - there are hundreds of Christmas markets in Berlin, but a lot of the smaller ones only open for very short periods of time. Hopefully these will at least serve as a good starting point for you!
The Alexanderplatz market has the advantage of being very close to the station, as well as being close to the shops around Alexanderplatz, which you might find useful for Christmas shopping (and I personally prefer the Galeria Kaufhof on Alexanderplatz to KaDeWe, if I'm wanting a big department store).
It's open from November 21st - December 26th 2016 (some of the food/drink huts and the skating rink until January 1st).
Open daily from 10am - 10pm (but 10am - 4pm on December 24th).
Almost blending into the Alexanderplatz market is the 'Wintertraum am Alexa' (winter dream at Alexa), which stretches along Alexanderstraße to Jannowitzbrücke, along the side of the Alexa shopping centre (the bizarre pink building on the southern side of Alexanderplatz). There's also a big funfair at the back of it.
It's open from November 21st - December 23rd 2016.
Monday - Friday 2pm - 10pm, Saturday and Sunday 12pm - 10pm.
Alexanderplatz is a major transport hub, so there's a huge choice of ways to get there - S-Bahn (S3, S5, S7/75), U-Bahn (U2, U5, U8), tram (M2, M4, M5, M6, M8), bus (TXL, 100, 200, 248) and regional trains (RE1, RE2, RE7, RB14).
The market by the Rathaus, known as Berliner Weihnachtszeit, is of course also close to Alexanderplatz, so you can always visit the two, plus take a wander through the nearby Nikolaiviertel, which you might also find good for gifts. I've noticed it getting very crowded on some nights (Fridays and Saturdays in particular) and the organisers have been warning of pickpockets in recent years - something to be wary of in any crowded area in a big city like Berlin. Even when crowded, the atmosphere has remained good natured, so it depends what you prefer - if you love it when a place is really bustling, a Friday or Saturday here will suit you perfectly. If you prefer things a bit quieter, you might want to try it at another time, or head for somewhere that's generally quieter like Schloß Charlottenburg.
The Rathaus market also boasts a 50m high ferris wheel, which promises impressive views, though stood next to the 368m high Fernsehturm, it's hard not to think of it as rather small! If you prefer to stay on the ground, there's an ice skating rink too.
It's open from November 21st - December 29th 2016.
Monday - Friday 12pm - 10pm, Saturday and Sunday 11am - 10pm (closed all day December 24th, then open 11am - 9pm on the 25th and 26th, and 12 - 9pm on the 29th)
The The Nostalgischer Weihnachtsmarkt (nostalgic Christmas market) is, in turn, not all that far from the Rathaus. It's now held in the space around St Hedwigs Kathedrale, which seems more suited to a nostalgic atmosphere than its previous temporary location on Schloßplatz. While it's smaller than it used to be before the building work on the opera house forced it to move, it's gota nice cosy feel to it. Horse-drawn carriage rides through the city are also available, though they're not cheap!
It's open from November 24th - December 26th 2016.
Open Monday-Sunday 12pm - 9:30pm (closed December 24th).
I've mentioned the Weihnachtszauber market in Gendarmenmarkt before. Unlike most markets, they charge an entry fee (though still only 1 euro) and a lot of the things on offer are more expensive, but it's free on weekday afternoons - no bad thing, as I've found it getting rather overcrowded on some evenings. It's particularly good for arts and crafts, and a lot of the food stalls are run by nearby restaurants and hotels. Of course, it's within walking distance of the Opernpalais, so if you fancy doing a market crawl, you can go all the way from Alexanderplatz to Gendarmenmarkt and not be away from a Christmas market for more than about 5 minutes! If you don't fancy the walk, the U-Bahn stations Stadtmitte (U2, U6), Französische Straße (U6) and Hausvogteiplatz (U2) are all close by (the exit from the U2 platform at Stadtmitte is the closest of the lot).
It's open from November 21st - December 31st 2016 - they also hold a New Year's Eve event there.
Open daily 11am - 10pm (closing at 6pm on December 24th and 7pm on the 31st; entry to the New Year's Eve party on the 31st, from 7pm - 1am, is €12). Entry is free Monday - Friday 11am - 2pm.
At Potsdamer Platz, there are a number of events including a selection of winter sports activities.
The 'Winterwelt' (winter world), which offers a toboggan run, skating rink and curling, is slightly separate from the market, opening on November 4th and closing on January 1st. It claims to have Europe's largest mobile toboggan run, which is free to use, as is the skating rink. There's also free skating tuition for children aged between 4 and 7 years old.
It's open daily from 10am - 10pm (10pm - 2pm on December 24th, closed all day November 13th and 20th).
The Christmas market offers all the usual fare, and of course is well placed for combining with a trip to the shopping centre at Potsdamer Platz, or to one of the cultural establishments at the Kulturforum, such as the Philharmonie or the Musical Instruments Museum
The Christmas market is open from November 21st until December 26th 2016.
Open daily 10am - 10pm (but 10am - 2pm on December 24th).
Inside the Sony Center, there's a 'Fabelhafte Weihnachten' (Enchanting Christmas) display, with light figures and Christmas trees, plus a daily dance show (Monday - Thursday 5-8pm, Friday & Saturday 4-9pm, Sunday 4-8pm). Opening dates have not yet been released for 2016, but is likely late November until the beginning of January.
I feel like the area around the Kaiser Wilhelm Gedächtniskirche has taken a bit of an upward turn lately, particularly with the newly refurbished 'Bikini Haus', so the Christmas market (called Weihnachtsmarkt an der Gedächtniskirche) is worth a look. It's very close to Zoologischer Garten station, so like with Alexanderplatz, there are plenty of options for getting there. It's got a selection of the usual sorts of food stalls, plus the 'Hirschstube' pop-up restaurant run by top chef Matthias Buchholz.
It also has a small Santa's Grotto at the base of the giant Christmas tree, where Father Christmas gives out presents to children between 4 and 5pm every day (12 - 1pm on the 24th). There's also a stand run by the 'Backmäuse' (baking mice!) where children can go to bake Christmas biscuits.
On December 31st, there are fireworks at 6pm, 8pm, 10pm and at midnight.
It's open from November 21st 2016 - January 1st 2017.
Open Sunday - Thursday 11am - 9pm, Friday - Saturday 11am - 10pm (but 11am - 2pm on December 24th, 1pm - 9pm on December 25th and 26th, 1pm - 9pm on January 1st, and there's a special late opening from 11am - 1am on December 31st).
If you want to venture ever so slightly further from the city centre, the Schloss Charlottenburg Christmas Market is nice. Like I mentioned in my piece on it, the setting is particularly atmospheric. Along with a nice selection of things to buy, it has three restaurant tents, one selling local dishes from Brandenburg, one selling Austrian specialities and one selling mainly duck and goose-based dishes.
It's open from November 21st - December 26th 2016.
Open Monday - Thursday 2pm - 10pm, Friday - Sunday 12pm - 10pm (but closed on December 24th, open 12pm - 8pm on December 25th and 26th).
Other Christmas activities
The Berliner Dom (Berlin Cathedral) holds a range of Christmas concerts, alongside the expected services. The cathedral organ is a particularly fine instrument, so it's worth a visit if you like organ music.
For Catholic services, you may want to try St Hedwig's Cathedral.
The Berlin Philharmonic put on concerts over the Christmas period, and there are usually specific Christmas music concerts in the Philharmonie and the associated chamber music hall as well.
If you're staying in Berlin over Christmas itself, bear in mind that many things will close early on December 24th (if they open at all) and will usually be closed on the 25th and 26th as well. Public transport still runs,and it can really be a nice opportunity to explore the city when it's quiet.
What to wear
The weather in Berlin does get quite cold during winter. It's common for temperatures to drop to well below 0°C in December, so it's worth packing plenty of warm clothes (though it's also worth me saying that Berlin's shops are a great place to buy winter clothes). Either one thick jacket or several layers is a good idea, and I always like to have a nice pair of gloves and a warm hat too.
Snow isn't unheard of either, especially later in the month, so you might get at least a small taste of a white Christmas on your visit...no guarantees, though! Beautiful though snow is, it does mean it can get a bit slippery underfoot, though pavements on larger roads tend to get swept and gritted quite regularly. Packing a nice warm pair of shoes or boots with good grips is a good idea!
On the flip side, in a milder winter, it can rain - I like to keep a small umbrella in my pocket just in case.
December is really a lovely time to visit Berlin (if you like wintry weather, at least!), so if you like the sound of what you've read here, then now's a good time to start planning your trip - you can get some great deals by booking early, and some travel agents, hotels and airlines put on special Christmas offers.
Don't forget to take a look at the Christmas markets map if you want to see where they all are!